Hi everyone,
At Level, Zoe and I put solar party lights up outside the Nakamal and it was extremely well received by everyone including the local men sitting under them to grind kava. Solar is king on Pentecost!
AC/DC - Next To The Moon - https://youtu.be/oi5YGnr4VlI
And it makes me feel so fine" - Weezer, Island In The Sun, 2001.
This episode is split into two different parts. Part 1 is about the last two weeks that DJ ZedBoots and I have just spent on Pentecost in Vanuatu. Part 2 is about music.
Part 1 - Pentecost
Pentecost is an amazing place. This was my third visit (and Zoe's fourth). To get there I flew from Canberra to Brisbane, Brisbane to Santo and then Santo to Pentecost. That last flight is in a rather small plane called a Twin Otter. We spent a week with our family at Level School and then another week with our other family at Lini Memorial College. And we brought the rain with us! They'd not had any for months and we most certainly changed that. At one stage my travel journal was about to be renamed to, "Rob and Zoe go to Pentecost and look at rain". We didn't let it get us down though and still managed visits to help in the gardens (where food is grown), tons of time with kids and family just talking and playing, attending a Class 5 end of year party, looking at a health clinic, checking out a very wide range of building works and just generally hanging out. Finger spinners and yo-yos turned out to be fantastic ice breakers with kids.
The money raised from my band payments and generous gig-time donations has assisted in paying for a double length classroom at Level and it's almost finished. Other fundraising has made it possible for a number of families to gain assistance to help pay for their kids' school term fees. Thanks so much to everyone that helped out.
It's hard to describe life in Pentecost. It's hard but peaceful. Family, church and community is everything. Without fail, people smile, shake hands and say hello. Most want to strike up a conversation and it's genuine. One of the things that the locals appreciate the most is time spent chatting; they call it telling stories. I did a lot of that. The rain meant that we got so much time to talk to people and for me to work on my language skills.
We were extremely lucky to be the first people to inhabit a new "house" built at Level. It is unique there in that it has a raised timber floor. In all the torrential rain there was only one tiny leak right at the door. The craftsmanship is just amazing. We also contended with chickens following us everywhere, cows in the station area and Nakamal (meeting house) and naughty escaping pigs!
About 18 months ago my cousin Iain in Scotland, after a visit from Zoe, organised the congregation at the church he attends to collect some books for Level. They ended up with a lot and a huge package (like a pallet load) headed by sea to Vanuatu. For any number of reasons they were delivered to the wrong island, lost, found, re-routed, lost again, found again and then sat in a warehouse for an age. Iain chased them, I chased them and my sister Nancy in Port Vila chased them. I really thought that we'd never see them so imagine my shock when I found out that they'd arrived at Level about two weeks before we did! Two schools on Pentecost now have an amazing range of books. The library shelving at Level is going up over the Christmas break. Thanks to Iain and all the folks at New Kilpatrick Church in Bearsden for their generosity and for never giving up!
At Level, Zoe and I put solar party lights up outside the Nakamal and it was extremely well received by everyone including the local men sitting under them to grind kava. Solar is king on Pentecost!
I read a difficult book (Zen & The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance). More about that another day! And I enjoyed quite a lot of doing not much. Having a clear head to think coupled with being off-grid is wonderful for your mental health.
Our time flew by and I'll admit to crying like a baby when I left Level. No-one can really tell though when you're behind sunglasses, under a hat and clinging for dear life to the tray of a 4WD!
There are almost three sides to Vanuatu. The two urban centres (Port Vila and Luganville), the resorts and the islands. I haven't been to a resort so I can't comment there. Port Vila and Luganville are fine to transit through but I wouldn't go there for any length of time unless I was working or staying with locals. The islands are the place to be. The lack of western amenities and services will be a barrier to many (they were to me before the whole Cyclone Pam thing) but washing in a bucket, the long drop toilet and the lack of internet is easy to get used to and very much outweighed by everything else.
I'll definitely be going back but admit that I don't know when that will be. That's three visits in three years now and I'm keenly aware that there are other places I might like to experience. These trips have been amazing adventures to take with Zoe. I feel that I know her on such a deeper level and I imagine she knows way too much about me. But, we'll be back one day soon.
Part 2 - Music
Malcolm Young from AC/DC died this week. He was 64 and had suffered from dementia for a few years time. This was the first piece of news I heard when I came off Pentecost and Angus (Marshall, not Young) was the one who told me. There's no doubt that Angus Young was the one to initially attract me to AC/DC; he's iconic for a reason. However, before long I realised the driving force was his brother Malcolm's rhythm guitar. When so many people were shredding a million notes all over the fretboard, Mal was playing big, loud open chords. "It's A Long Way To The Top (If You Wanna Rock & Roll)" is a simple but effective rhythm on an open A chord. Just add volume, drive and swagger. The classic opening to "Back In Black" is again open chords (E,D,A). Malcolm knew how to write what sounds like simple music that packed a punch, was catchy and had a distinctive sound and feel. When I started on the electric guitar I already knew the secret of those big open chords and I persevere with them today - that's his influence. Malcolm Young wasn't flashy, he preferred to be in the background just doing his thing and that's why I admired him so greatly as a musician.
AC/DC - Next To The Moon - https://youtu.be/oi5YGnr4VlI
AC/DC - Meanstreak - https://youtu.be/85XOuzSk9dY
Jason Isbell with his band, the 400 Unit, is coming to Australia in March 2018. After being unable to see him play during his last visit (and being intensely dissapointed) I'm happy to say that DJ Al-ee-sunshine has secured tickets for us both. Given the quality of the recent live performance he screened from the Ryman Auditorium, I am looking forward to an almost religious experience!
Jason Isbell & The 400 Unit - Codeine (live 2017) - https://youtu.be/2m961waDa_8
Jason Isbell & The 400 Unit - White Man's World - https://youtu.be/nu4dupoC7EE
I'm not up to date yet on any new releases so that'll have to wait for next time. DJ SlimHenry let me know that Sepultura are touring here next year supported by Death Angel. Neither Max or Igor Cavalera are in the band anymore so I'll have to check out some of their newer stuff before looking at dates and prices. Certainly the older stuff that I am familiar with is fantastic.
Sepultura - Troops of Doom (live 1991) - https://youtu.be/5-oz9leEoI0
Both places I stayed on Pentecost had an acoustic guitar so I actually got a lot of playing done. Calluses on my calluses! I really must remember to learn more Bob Marley songs before my next visit. There are only so many times that I can roll out "Buffalo Soldier", "Redemption Song" and half of "One Love" before I've had enough. No-one else was worried though. They also really liked this next tune....
Johnny Otis - Willie and the Hand Jive - https://youtu.be/J9oo1zVmxDg
Lastly, a very brief comment about our politicians who are currently leaving refugees to rot on Manus Island. It's a national disgrace and many members from both major parties should hang their heads in shame. Let's hope that some other countries have the guts to go around our government and help out.
Steve Earle - City of Immigrants (live 2013) - https://youtu.be/Mx-Ru2wQFNc
Have a great weekend,
Rob
"On an island in the sun
We'll be playin' and havin' funAnd it makes me feel so fine" - Weezer, Island In The Sun, 2001.